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Okay the bigger the number the finer the grit try going from a heavy grit to a finer and finer grit. That should help you get rid of any marks or grooves on the piece. after you finish sanding wash the piece in warm water let it dry well, prime and paint giving ample time to dry between cotes. make sure you sand joints before you prime and paint or you will get paint rubs. After your done painting you can dullcote giving ample time between cotes. Take your time

Awesome thanks man. I appreciate all the help tony and the rest of the gang!!!

While I'm on hiatus from the Hall, a friend has commissioned 2 customs of the same robot from the movie "I, Robot"...as cool as this is, I have a materials question fired up for the gang...

To attempt as close to screen-like accuracy as I can, I'd like to make the semi-transparent body parts he wears.

My current best guess is using hot glue in a layered effect over a metallic ice blue base paint, that I have tested on similar base body parts. But then I got to thinking that silicone may work well too.

Has anyone attempted to use silicone as a sculpting agent, and if so, is it a "Yay" or "Nay"?

Please let me Know

I've never worked with Silicone before, but isn't it usually something you have to pour into a mold to use? When it comes to translucent and transparent stuff, that's a tricky thing since most materials required to get a good looking job are ones that require a lot of work or, like, factory type materials. If I'm wrong, I surely hope to be because I love working with things that require translucent and transparent properties. There are polymer clays that are pretty transparent if applied thin, though. A couple brands can even be used thick and will pull off that look. Adding blue pastels helps with the blue appearance, plus using a glossy finish adds that cherry on the top.

Thanks Illiasc...I was also inspired to try 5-minute clear setting epoxy (from watching "Face Off) to cover, but though it looks sweet, it's just too clear and I would need a ton of it to fill in all the body openings of the base figure.

As for the base I'm using 2 last terminators from McFarlane

Maybe try clear silicone caulk for tubs and aquariums. I'm sure that would gob on thick enough to allow for some control and just sculpt it slightly with a wet finger. Could probably do it in layers. It's clear but not transparent.

Thanks AD, when I said silicone earlier, that's what my head was thinking but my fingers weren't typing...

here is an odd pitch....the mouthgaurds for football players. Don't hang up! I am working with them to get capes for some of my older figures....anyway, I digress. They go for 97 cents at WalMart. Boil them and they become moldable (kinda rubbery when they cool down) Could be a cheap solution. And if I am wrong, you're out a buck.

That does sound intriguing Hector, thanks bud

After getting my Alumilite Super Casting Kit for Christmas 2013, I've finally decided I want to attempt casting heads. Does anyone know of any good tutorials or videos for this specific product?