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Not for your skit specifically, but this is one tutorial I've looked at before. It just shows you how to mount the head in a simple way and all that.


This one is more professional and thorough and will probably allow for the hole to be replicated that allows you to pop it on the neck pegs and involves creating a series of channels out of wax.


For your mould pour, I personally use LEGO because it's easy to take apart after you're done. Just build a retaining wall around the item you're casting and use clay to seal in the mould material.

Be sure to post pics of what you come up with, man!!!

packerbacker180 wrote:After getting my Alumilite Super Casting Kit for Christmas 2013, I've finally decided I want to attempt casting heads. Does anyone know of any good tutorials or videos for this specific product?

Dude, you live 40 minutes from me, I can teach you how to cast. How have we not met up yet?

Truwe wrote:

packerbacker180 wrote:After getting my Alumilite Super Casting Kit for Christmas 2013, I've finally decided I want to attempt casting heads. Does anyone know of any good tutorials or videos for this specific product?

Dude, you live 40 minutes from me, I can teach you how to cast. How have we not met up yet?

Because I have three kids and no free time, lol. But yeah, I noticed you were in Rochester. I'm probably closer to an hour away being in Orchard Park.

I hear ya man, I have three dogs that take way too much of my time up so I can image kids are a lot harder. I've had that kit before and it sucks to be honest. It's overpriced and the rubber molds don't really hold up over time and the resin cures way too fast. The only good thing out of it is that blue clay. If you are familiar with the customizer Ole Jade Jaw, he just spent an hour on the phone teaching me how to cast and I have it down pretty good now. Here is what I do:

Drill a really tiny hole in the top of the head, figures with hair seem to be the best because I can hide the hole in between strands of hair.

I use Vallejo paint so I have a ton of caps laying around, so I drill a hole through the top to get the end of a toothpick through it. I superglue the toothpick end into the hole I drilled from the last step

I bought the mouthwash paper cups and put clay down and then the upside down head into the clay.

Pour my mold in, let it dry over night.

Cut the paper cup and then do a zig zag cut into the side of the mold about half way down and pop the head out.

I put non fragrance (apparently there is a bad chemical reaction that occurs with fragrance brands) talcum powder in the mold, shake it, and blow out the excess.

When you pour your resin in, squeeze the sides of the mold. By using the toothpick to make the tiny funnel, it creates a vacuum that sucks the resin down into the mold.

Mold I use is OOMOO 30
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubbe ... index.html

and the Resin is Smooth-Cast 326
http://www.smooth-on.com/index.php?cPath=1206

Some things to remember:

The ten minute cure time can be a killer, that is why I go with the 326 (60 minute cure time) because it starts to turn into gel within minutes and that doesn't allow to get into the mold fully.

The stuff I recommended is not kidding about the working temps (73 degrees I think) because I work in a cold basement and it extends the cure time

Stuff like holdsters, Batman heads, and women with long hair OR if you want the Smooth-cast to harden crystal clear, you need a pressure pot to suck all the bubbles out. If you are good with putting stuff together, you can make a pot for around $200 or if you are a money bags, you can buy one for $700 or so.

Smooth-on also makes a pigment that works with the smooth-cast if you want to make colored casts.

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

Oy, this seems like an awful lot of work. Will have to give it a try though. Thanks for all the explaining.

I thought that the first time but it gets easier each time.

The vacuum degasser is optional. You just might end up with a few casts that are throwaways due to bubbles. You can just chop them up and use them to fill larger casts. At least that's what I do. LOL.

AcidDragon wrote:The vacuum degasser is optional. You just might end up with a few casts that are throwaways due to bubbles. You can just chop them up and use them to fill larger casts. At least that's what I do. LOL.

It is optional especially if you are using rubber mold like OOMOO (Vacuumless molds). The pressure pots also ensure less casting errors occur as well.

It's funny that you mentioned the chopping up the old molds, as my buddy just taught me that technique last week. Now I am really pissed that I through all those molds away that didn't turn out when I first started. Oh well, live and learn...

Welp, just tried making my first head mold (ML Constrictor). I'm sure it's going to fail spectacularly, but for now, like in Casablanca, all there is to do is wait...and wait...and wait...and wait...

Yeah I try to save all my scraps be it resin or mould material. When I do a slightly larger cast, I just drop in a reject piece when it's part full and top it up. I've never encountered a problem with resin or mould rubber having structural integrity problems from doing this but I don't really use it for any heavy duty applications.